Small but perfectly formed Montenegro


 
 

Last month I was fortunate to be invited to explore Montenegro, a country I had heard a lot about but never had an opportunity to visit. It’s easy to see why this miniscule country is fast becoming one of Europe’s hottest new tourist destinations. With majestic mountains, gorgeous beaches, great food and culture, it has a lot going for it.

I flew from London Heathrow Terminal 5 with BA to Dubrovnik. From here it was around a 90-minute drive to Montenegro. Our first stop was Adriatica Restaurant in Kamenari for a delicious seafood lunch - and our first taste of Montenegrin cuisine - overlooking the glittering Adriatic Sea. We then headed on to the Regent Porto Montenegro, a luxury five-star hotel and our base for the next two nights.

This grand Venetian Palazzo style hotel is in the Gulf of Kotor, which is often referred to as the southernmost fjord in Europe and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Look outside and you’ll see a variety of shiny superyachts lined up in the brand-new marina, which was once home to a Yugoslav naval base.

A tour of the hotel revealed 175 rooms and suites spread across three wings. With views of the sea at every turn, the rooms ooze Mediterranean sophistication with a subtle nautical theme designed to evoke the feeling of being on board a luxury liner. The hotel has two 20m pools, one indoor and the other an outdoor infinity pool, while a separate Pool Clubs boasts a swimming area of 600m². Guests also have access to two outdoor and one indoor tennis court and sports Club. For fitness fanatics there’s a first-floor gym, and the Regent Spa offers a wide variety of treatments.

 
 

There are eight event spaces, both indoor and outdoor, catering for a variety of needs, from intimate gatherings and cosy breakfast meetings to glitzy cocktail parties, weddings, conferences and balls. That evening we dined at the hotel’s main restaurant, The Murano, where the menu centres around fresh seafood prepared with locally sourced and organic herbs. The hotel also has a patisserie and gourmet delicatessen, pool bar, stylish lobby bar and Library bar serving a selection of the finest champagnes, cognacs and scotch whiskies.

The next morning, we ventured out to Cetinje, formerly the royal capital of Montenegro and now the historic and cultural capital and a great place to learn about the history of this small country. En route we stopped for a drink at Vista Vidikovak, a popular restaurant with locals and visitors thanks to its breath-taking views of the Old Town of Budva, Mogren beach, Budva Riviera and across the Adriatic Sea. From here we ventured into the mountains for some high-octane off-road buggy driving.


 
 

In the afternoon, we headed to the old town of Kotor, with its jumble of architectural style churches, Venetian marble and terracotta roof tiles. A labyrinth of narrow lanes link interconnecting squares and with churches dating back to the 12th and 14th Century, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979. We visited the Serbian Orthodox Church of St Nicholas, with its large black domed bell towers and beautiful interiors before dining at the Forza Porto overlooking Porto Montenegro Marina.

Our final day began with a boat ride around the bay of Kotor and across to Our Lady of the Rock, an artificial island off the coast which according to legend was created over centuries by local seamen who, on finding the icon of Madonna and Child on a rock in the sea, pledged to lay a rock in the bay upon returning from each successful voyage, until one day the islet emerged from the sea. We also visited Nikki Beach, a boutique beachside hotel boasting 50 rooms, suites and apartments and a beach club.

Mamula Island Hotel is a 19th Century fortress that is being carefully renovated to create the ultimate luxury hideaway – and we were lucky enough to be allowed to visit. The hotel, located on a previously uninhabited islet at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor, is set to open in March 2023 and as well as a luxury hotel it will offer world-class dining and a holistic spa as well as a memorial gallery celebrating its iconic history.


 
 

Our final stop and our destination for lunch was a visit to One & Only Portonovi, a chic resort in the heart of Boka Bay set over 60 acres, which opened in May 2021. This place is extraordinary. The bedrooms here are vast, with daybeds on the balconies and sea views from the bathtubs. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Sabia by Giorgio Locatelli sits by the beach, and there are a further three restaurants and bars, plus the chance to enjoy private dining in a secluded spot of your choice anywhere in the grounds! There’s also a spa and a variety of event spaces ideal for hosting everything from summits and training sessions to awards and product launches. Any event here would certainly be unforgettable.


 
 

 
 

“This place is extraordinary. The bedrooms here are vast, with daybeds on the balconies and sea views from the bathtubs.”


And so my time in Montenegro was at an end and we were whisked back to the airport for our return flights home. A big thank you to Kathy from All About Flights, Nikki and Luke from Destinations Unlimited, our DMC representation company, and Snezana and her team from Talas Montenegro for organizing and hosting me on this wonderful trip. Montenegro may be small, but it’s very special. It’s easy to see why big-name hotels are opening here and cruise ships are adding this beautiful destination to their Mediterranean ports of call.

We’d love to tell you more about Montenegro, so please get in touch.
 
 
Emma Taylor